This was the period when I bumped into a grumpy Mark Thatcher who kept a bolthole in Baku as he touted, like many other Western wheeler-dealers, for a slice of the Azeri action. Women's days are Mondays and Fridays, all the rest are for men. Azerbaijan had so much oil its heiresses bathe in it I am stopping this talk. Share this article Share. In another dozen or so years it will be one of the smartest, most fashionable locations in the world. This is the number one choice for a quintessential Azerbaijani hammam experience.
Bathing in Baku: How to hammam like a local
Today there's still a loyal crowd of locals that can't live without a hammam, but before joining them here's a brief guide to its rules and rituals. Tom Marsden is a British writer and photographer currently based in Azerbaijan. Long before the Soviets did away with religious conservatism, women's hammams were a natural hunting ground for mothers eager to get a closer look at potential young brides.